Icelandic Designer Milla Snorrason's Take on Environmental Kindness

Hanna-Amanda P. G. October 17, 2016

Hailing from Iceland, Milla Snorrason mixes unique woollen pieces with a touch of comfort. By creating sustainable fashion for a strong individual, for Milla Snorrason, quality and longevity are the key. We were so inspired by the Scandinavian simplicity and femininity of the Reykjavík-based label that we asked the head designer Hilda Gunnarsdóttir about her design process and her passion for environmental kindness.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

At Savant, we believe in sustainable fashion and the complete traceability of production. Fast fashion is a craze, but it could be slowed down. What is your take on this?

The mass production of garments is a big problem nowadays. I always think our biggest restriction as regular consumers is our purse, but this needs to be perceived as power. Don't buy fast fashion products, as simple as that. Instead, do your research and try to buy from a company that cares about the conditions in the factories it does business with. It’s always going to be more expensive, but it was also never actually supposed to be cheap, [because it is fair and ethical]. I try to apply this philosophy to my production as well.

Milla Snorrason Campaign 2016: Sóley Sigurþórs by Rut Sigurðardóttir / Stylist: Anna Clausen / Hair and make-up: Fríða María Harðardóttir. — *Milla Snorrason Campaign 2016: Sóley Sigurþórs by Rut Sigurðardóttir / Stylist: Anna Clausen / Hair and make-up: Fríða María Harðardóttir.*

We love that you like using sustainable materials and wool. Where do you source your fabrics from? What is your favourite material to work with and why?

I love working with Icelandic wool the most, because it is a local product and I can easily visit its producers, which I always do. This inspired me to even start my range of woollen sweaters. I can see and judge with my own eyes, how the sheep are treated and also how the knitting factory's workers are treated. Icelandic sheep get to run around wild all summer, but in the winter it gets too cold, so they’re kept inside. However, I haven't yet reached that goal of using only sustainable materials. Milla Snorrason is still a very small company and, more often than not, sustainable fabrics have too high minimum orders for us. But I am doing a lot of research and taking one step at a time towards more emphasis on sustainability.

In Iceland, it’s difficult not to be inspired by the magical nature, the breathtaking scenery. Where do you draw your inspiration from when creating a collection for Milla Snorrason? Who is the woman you design for?

For every collection, I take a trip to explore more of Iceland. My favourite pastime is hiking. I take loads of photos and I mostly use these photos to create my prints. Iceland's nature is definitely what inspires me the most, but I also look at so many other things. Our surrounding visual culture inspires me a lot — I go to galleries, watch movies, I surf on the web and I take so many photos and collect them from everywhere. I am constantly researching my next collection. This spring I also went to Mexico and Cuba, which will definitely have its impact in a future collection.

“I am always inspired by people who treat animals with the same kindness as they do people. She is also a big advocate for environmental issues, which is something I take to heart, when deciding where and how to produce my clothes.”

I design first and foremost for myself, but also for my friends, my mother, her friends and any woman in the street who I think is inspiring, and I always wonder what I'd like to see her wear…

We all have people we admire, be it for their kindness, sense of style, or their lifestyle. Who do you look up to as a designer?

She's not really related to design directly, but the first woman that comes to mind is Jane Goodall. I think her work with animals is so beautiful and I am always inspired by people who treat animals with the same kindness as they do people. She is also a big advocate for environmental issues, which is something I take to heart, when deciding where and how to produce my clothes. Visually, I think female artists inspire me the most. They often don't really think about fashion in a traditional way and can have a fresh and interesting take on it.

“Our surrounding visual culture inspires me a lot — I go to galleries, watch movies, I surf on the web and I take so many photos and collect them from everywhere. I am constantly researching my next collection.”

Finally, let’s look through a crystal ball. What does the future hold for Milla Snorrason?

I will show my next collection in early 2017. It will be based on a four-day trip I took with four of my girlfriends to Iceland's highlands in August. It's going to be called Uxatindar [peak in South Iceland] and it's looking wonderful in my head! Past that I just let things flow naturally. My crystal ball doesn't seem to be working that well yet.

http://millasnorrason.com

COSSAC: Changing the Face of Everyday Eco Fashion

Hanna-Amanda P. G. October 12, 2016

East-London based Cossac’s motto is to appeal to the mainstream fashion customer through attractive branding and accessible language. Brand’s founder Agata Kozak boldly believes that the aesthetic allure of fashion-making doesn’t come inseparable from acts of activism, breaking Cossac out of all things eco fashion cliché. Savant explores Agata Natalia Kozak's world of leading an everyday 'eco-hot' brand in high demand...

*Cossac AW16/17: model Ruth shot by Atisha Paulson.*

When did you decide that this cycle of fashion industry's mindless overproduction just can't go on anymore?

I started the brand only in 2014 — we actually have our second birthday in 2 weeks, which is really exciting. I studied Fashion Design in Istanbul and my previous experience was purely in mainstream fashion, both high-end and high-street. Back then, sustainability wasn’t really a thing in fashion. I don’t remember anyone ever mentioning it to me! When I moved to London right after university, here I became more conscious about sustainability as a form of living in general, so I started educating myself [on the topic], and I was applying it to everything — from my eating habits and the products I use to the kind of consumer I was. I thought that applying it to my job as well was just the right thing to do.

What were the main large-scale concerns that triggered you to create a conscious fashion brand?

[I quickly realised] there weren’t that many brands around that were doing something related to sustainability. Unfortunately, sustainable fashion is associated with certain subcultures, like hippies, and mainstream fashion people don’t really like wearing it, so I saw it as a gap in the market. COSSAC was born as a green alternative to the fashion industry, but our attractive and engaging sustainability element is more to do with the branding and styling, which is very important for us. That we appeal to our mainstream fashion customer is, I think, a key to our success so far.

You mentioned that initially there were not so many brands around, but did you have some idols that you were looking up to, some brands that made you think: Wow, they’re getting it right….

There were brands that I was admiring, like EDUN — they had well-established marketing and PR from the start — but I can see there are more now, mainly because I am in the eco fashion business every day and I live and I breathe it. Even though I was admiring the pioneering brands like PeopleTree, it was more because of the activism work they were doing, than about the fashion they had on offer.

Whenever I was actually trying to buy something sustainable, the offer wasn’t what I had expected it to be — for example, shipping charges of 30 per cent on top of the product is a bit of an exaggeration. Therefore, I was thinking, let’s do something about it…

What's your attitude towards the idea that eco fashion has certain negative connotations? As you mentioned earlier, it can be related to certain subcultures.

I’ve encountered that there are more brands growing now that actually understand how extremely important the image is… the way you sell your brand, the branding, styling. Even Alexandra Shulman [editor-in-chief of British Vogue] has said that: “First of all, you have to have a fashion product that has to look good”. [My interpretation is] that everything else comes as an addition to it, because people buy first into fashion, then sustainability comes as a bonus. I think that most eco fashion brands often get it completely wrong.

"People are still buying into fashion first and eco comes as an additional value. […]To me, obviously, sustainability is very important, I apply it to every aspect of my brand and my life, but I feel nowadays, for the customer, fashion — the visual appeal — comes first."

However, have you encountered a change in attitudes recently?

I think the attitudes are changing — for example, we are selling in Boxpark, Shoreditch, in a shop called UTTERCouture, where they don’t have eco brands per se, we are the only eco brand at the moment. They say that people really like the product first, then they read the story at the back, and they fall in love with it. I think the change is happening, but as I mentioned, we all have to remember that first of all, it is fashion, and everything else comes as a bonus.

Do you feel it’s also the reason why many brands get it wrong — they only focus on the sustainability aspect, leaving the fashion side secondary?

100%. Not to sound mean, but there is a difference between doing activism or being a charity worker and being good at fashion-making. I just cannot believe how fashion goes entirely missing sometimes…

More often, I see brands that actually have the aesthetics in place as well…

There are more brands like that. There are some cool, innovative things happening, like eco underwear and eco shoe brands. I think another problem with the eco brands is that sometimes the price is over the top, ridiculously high. But if you therefore want to appeal to the mainstream fashion customer, your price has to be quite competitive, because otherwise they will go to Zara instead! I understand that eco costs more, but you can still do it within reason, because I am doing it, so I know first-hand it is possible.

"If you talk to them in this accessible and easy language and prove to them that eco can be sexy — for example, our motto is ‘eco hot’ . This is very appealing to people."

Do you think that slow fashion’s high price will remain unchanged in the future?

It depends on many things, but my goal was to grab the interest of this customer who shops in high street, so the price needs to be more or less similar. It will never be as low as Zara or Primark, but it all is to do with where you source the fabrics from and where you produce. For example, if you do the production part in the UK, prices will be much higher and most of the materials are anyway imported, especially fabrics. I manage to keep the price low because we source locally in Turkey, where I produce, so I don’t have additional fabric shipping costs or import duty costs on the fabrics, everything is local. I think the price of eco products is one of the biggest issues, lately I wanted to convince my friends to buy eco fashion only… their reaction was that, not only are the clothes unattractive — not very sexy — but the price is also so high, I mean, who would buy it? It is possible to keep the price low, but it depends on quantities as well, so many, invisible factors must be taken into account.

Is it very difficult to find the right fabrics?

I used to live in Istanbul, it’s a wonderful city. I also know how rich their history is, when it comes to textiles. But they are used to working with big fashion brands, so the order quantities they want for fabrics are thousands and thousands of meters, and my small label can’t give them these orders, so they take longer to produce my fabric. I can find whatever I want, but minimum orders are a concern.

Do you feel that slow fashion is still targeted at the niche market? Who is the most typical customer of yours?

I think it is still a fairly niche market, but I believe it is changing rapidly. Even though my clothes are quite universal and ageless, I have thoroughly envisioned who [my target customer] is and what she does. She is between 25 to 35. She is ambitious, she lives in a city, she is very aware of the world she lives in. She admires art, she loves socialising… The most important, she likes to pay a bit more for a product that has something more to it, something of value — sustainability or longevity.

Give a London-based example.

I think [in London] people who come to Boxpark, Shoreditch, to shop are pretty much my key customers — they are creatives from East London, they have a bit more of disposable income, and they actually like to invest in pieces, which they wear more than 30 times, which is the magic number [you wear your clothes]. They don’t really buy throwaway fashion. From the next season, we will also be selling at 69b Boutique in Broadway Market. I think this is another ideal spot, as people who go there are more into shopping organic — there is a farmer’s market down there on the weekends, so it nicely relates.

Does the carefully selected presence add to the uniqueness of the pieces, would you say? There will always be people who don’t want to wear clothes that everyone else has…

The products are quite unique, because I do very small production rounds. I prefer to have less than restock, because I don’t think it’s sustainable to have stock left over. For example, I have sold out a couple of items of AW16/17, I had to re-order. I think it also adds to the exclusivity and creates a buzz around the brand, when it’s not so widely available.

"COSSAC was born as a green alternative to the fashion industry, but our attractive and engaging sustainability element is more to do with the branding and styling, which is very important for us."

What's the most complicated part of the process of educating people on sustainable fashion?

I think one of the problems with sustainable fashion is that… I always feel that it’s too pretty, too unreachable. I always feel that someone is telling me off [when talking] about eco-fashion. People hate that. After all, fashion should be fun, fashion should be sexy and playful, we don’t want to have anyone telling us, ‘You are a bad person, when buying Primark’. I think some eco brands still don’t know how to speak about the issues. The language we use [when interacting with customers] is very casual, like “Hey babe, here is some eco fashion for you…”. The kind of thing that feels very close to people and invites them to explore the fashions, what’s on offer. It is also something that people can relate to and it doesn’t seem that harsh, even though you speak about a very serious matter. For example, we hosted the screening of ‘The True Cost’ [the documentary] a year ago and obviously it is a very serious documentary, but it was all about the way we approached people… we hosted it in Hackney Wick, at a bar that my friend owns. I turned it into an evening with good food and great fun. I think the language you use is very, very important. I think people responded well to it.

You state on your website that you’re also reducing all the packaging and use of additional labels. Has this also appealed to people?

It does. This is actually quite funny because there are eco brands, which I have ordered a few times and the parcel came to me, and it had thousands of tissue papers and receipts. I was just standing there looking at all the rubbish, and thinking, ‘there is no need for that!’.

Do you feel that there are eco brands that are still not fully transparent when it comes to what they’re actually doing?

There are brands that choose to focus only on one aspect of sustainability, because to be honest, it is quite hard to apply all the aspects. However, even if they only focus on organic fabrics, then that is already a plus. I don’t want to be a hypocrite, so I try to execute [my fashion-making] on a fully transparent level, but it doesn’t change the fact that you live and you learn. 2 years ago, I even did my shopping at Primark, but as I became aware of the impact of the fashion industry on the planet, it is quite nice to observe that I grow with the brand, I learn every day.

Would you say you’re not buying high street anymore at all?

I try not to as much as I can. Recently I was shopping for knitwear and I was only looking at eco brands, like Everlane, because I would like those brands to grow and I’d rather support smaller businesses. I don’t want COSSAC ever to be an enormous H&M. It is not my goal to make it into a global superpower. I think small is beautiful, so I am all for smaller businesses.

But in the end, you have to sell to live? That’s perhaps the controversy.

My goal is not to get filthy rich. I don’t think that is sustainable either. If you are able to do what you love and make a living out of it… that’s already great, a goal accomplished. People can get too greedy on the way.

Sometimes I’m allured by a brand, and everything looks good on paper. Then I find out it is still ‘Made in China’. What does it mean?

Depends on where in China do they manufacture. I did work with some factories in China before and there’s nothing wrong — the factories I worked with have very good salaries, regulations, even obligatory yoga classes on weekends. There’s a difference between ‘Made in China’ and ‘Made in China’. Unfortunately it still has this negative connotation, but China is much high-standard now than it used to be… the more red-light areas are Cambodia, Bangladesh and Pakistan.

We also live in an era that proudly advocates the cult of shopping. What do you think, what would make us invest in quality rather than quantity?

I think by making pieces that are quite universal and versatile. Then people will see themselves that they don’t really need to buy 3 jumpsuits, when they have one existing good quality, durable jumpsuit, which can be turned into something more interesting with the way you style it for different occasions.

If you talk to them in this accessible and easy language and prove to them that eco can be sexy — for example, our motto is ‘eco hot’ . This is very appealing to people.

‘Eco Hot’! Sounds fun. How did you come up with it?

We were looking for a catchy phrase, that would define shortly what I want COSSAC to be. I wanted it to be sustainable fashion, but I also wanted it to be sassy, I wanted it to be desirable. Every piece in the collection is a piece that I would personally wear… [the aim is that] you look at the design and you wouldn’t necessarily say it’s eco, and then you find out that it is also sustainable. The customers read the story and they feel better about themselves that they’ve made a more conscious choice, they contributed to creating a better world.

Eco aspect vs the aesthetics?

People are still buying into fashion first and eco comes as an additional value. It will change over time, but it will take years. At the end of the day, it is a fashion brand. To me, obviously, sustainability is very important, I apply it to every aspect of my brand and my life, but I feel nowadays, for the customer, fashion — the visual appeal — comes first.

http://www.cossac.co.uk

Starch Slides — Shoes of Up-Cycled Men's Shirts for The Girl On the Go

Hanna-Amanda P. G. October 10, 2016

NYC-based Starch Slides is a unique footwear brand that has mastered crafting the perfect slide-on shoe, whereas proudly pairing the sustainability element of up-cycling men’s shirts with vegan leather. At Starch Slides, individuality is the key — no other pair for ‘the girl on the go’ looks the same, ever. Savant talks shoes and sustainability with its founder Shannon Crowley.

Particularly considering the environmental impact, what informed the creation of Starch Slides?

As I come from a retail buying background, I wanted to bring a brand to life that was eco-friendly without looking entirely “granola”. I woke up in the middle of the night with the idea of up-cycling men’s shirts as shoes, and I sketched [my vision] and took it from there.

What's your personal relationship with sustainability? How much does it reflect in your brand?

Starch Slides is very much my personal style — they are cool, effortless, comfortable and original. I have always been aware of green living, watching my waste and hoping others do the same. I think even doing little things make a huge difference over time, and not being sustainable is irresponsible at this point. Little things, like skipping the plastic produce bag when buying oranges, using a refillable water bottle, and washing and reusing plastic Tupperwares when ordering take-out can make a big difference.

"I have thought I dislike many styles of shoes, then I see a woman rocking them and looking totally cool. This has taught me not to judge."

Your design philosophy is to create a unique, one-of-a-kind pair of shoes that no one else has. Describe the woman who starts her morning routine wearing Starch Slides…

The Starch Slides girl is a girl of any age — our audience ranges from 17 to 60. The prints of a men’s button-up shirt resonates with all ages, as the shirts are so classic. A big trend has been for mothers and daughters to each get a pair (different styles, of course), the style of slides is so simple that the shoe really changes personality based on the shirt we used to make it. They are for the girl on the go — simply slip them on and run out. Also, they come in a reusable backpack and take up little room in a suitcase, so they are a perfect travel shoe. I bring at least 4 pairs to every vacation I take.

Could you elaborate on the concept of 'vegan' leather?

Vegan leather is made of polyurethane — it is durable, playable and breathable. We use vegan leather because we want to have as small of a carbon footprint as we can possibly get. We bind the fabric from the shirt to vegan leather so your foot stays secure and the slide is very durable. Trust me, I am bashing through the streets of NYC and I have yet to wear through a pair, and I am not easy on shoes.

"Little things, like skipping the plastic produce bag when buying oranges, using a refillable water bottle, and washing and reusing plastic Tupperwares when ordering take-out can make a big difference."

What's your opinion on the fashion and footwear industry exposing itself to a greater degree of transparency? Is there still a long way to go to acting completely green?

I think that consumers are doing a great job of asking questions, this is leading brands to expose the truth behind the process of their factories. I do think many brands are taking strides where they can to become green, which is a wonderful thing to see. We have a long way to go, but I think we will get there in time.

What do you hate the most about the mass production of shoes? What makes creating a sustainable shoe difficult?

I hate the cheap prices of mass produced shoes. It’s hard to work so hard to make sure your shoes all have their own, unique personality, then walk in a store and see shoes on sale for less than lunch. People need to continue to remind themselves, “who is getting paid?”, when they see prices that are too cheap to believe.

What's the type of shoe you hate to see or wear? What makes a shoe beautiful?

I have thought I dislike many styles of shoes, then I see a woman rocking them and looking totally cool. This has taught me not to judge. I definitely have my own style, it is rocker/boho. When I am not in slides I am in sneakers or motorcycle boots. I live in New York City and always need to be in outfits that transition from day to night, [that are] easy and understated. So Starch Slides are the perfect shoe choice for this girl on the go.

http://www.starchslides.com

MUD Jeans: The First 'Circular Economy' Based Denim Label

Hanna-Amanda P. G. October 6, 2016

The Dutch denim brand MUD Jeans has gained fame beyond making jeans — the foreseeing, conscious denim maker operates on a ‘circular economy’ based brand model, aiming to shift the perspective of completely guilt-free consumption as a mere utopia. This means you are not just blindly buying a comfy pair of everyday jeans, but renting them with a bonus of swapping your most cherished ones against a new pair every year. Never letting go of your favourite jeans forever whilst doing good for the environment… sounds like a fair enough trade!

Savant spoke to Danique Gunning, Marketing Manager at MUD Jeans.

MUD Jeans operates on the model of circular economy. What does it mean, to put simply?

We live in a linear ‘take, make and dispose’ system, although we know our resources aren’t infinite. [The reality is], in the textile industry, we throw away a lot of clothing. We even burn it. Burning clothing accounts for 10% of the CO emission worldwide. So we have to change the way we do business. In a circular economy, there is no waste. We use old jeans — the ‘waste’ — as the resource for new denim products. We have made the circular economy practical by introducing the ‘Lease A Jeans’ concept. Customers pay a membership fee of 20€ and after that the pay only 7.5€ a month. After a year, they receive an email from us, asking whether they want to continue wearing the jeans or if they would like to switch to a new pair. Around 80% decides to switch to a new pair. Doing business in the circular economy thus means that, above all, you build long-term relationships with your customers.

“Doing business in the circular economy thus means that, above all, you build long-term relationships with your customers.”

Why do you think many brands reject taking that responsibility of being completely transparent in what they do?

I think brands should be transparent in what they’re doing because people expect this nowadays. Even though a brand makes mistakes, they should at least be honest about it and explain that they’re striving for the better.

Can consumption ever be entirely guilt-free?

It can for sure. It all starts with not buying things you don’t need. But if you purchase a circular product, you know that the materials will be reused. Also, doing business in the circular economy creates a lot of jobs in the recycling sector. But above all, you’re giving the resources back to the Earth at the end of use. This is our understanding of entirely guilt-free.

What are the general attitudes towards fashion and sustainability among the Dutch?

People talk about it a lot and only very few of them actually act accordingly. But things are changing at their own pace. More and more people have become aware of the damaging effects of the fashion industry on our planet. I think people just lack the relevant education on the topic, and they have to learn that alternatives can be as fashionable.

“Our own jeans are first sold as vintage, if they still look great. Worn-in jeans can be very fashionable, especially if you give them a redesign.”

What is the most difficult aspect in terms of educating the customer about environmental responsibility? To what extent does the education aspect of marketing matter?

Nowadays, people are so overwhelmed with information already. So it is important that the information we give about sustainability and about circular economy is fun, above all. In May 2016, we brought 3,000 returned lease jeans to our recycle factory in Valencia. Have a look at the Recycle Tour Video (link to YouTube). Through this trip, we showed that practicing in the circular economy can be a source of creative ideas and incorporate a lot of fun, too.

What can we all do to fight against the harm caused by the increasingly polluting fashion industry?

We can make sure our products are designed in such a way that they can be recycled after use. For example, we have already instructed the designers in the production process to make a difference. We are also thinking about how to reuse the products after being worn, for that we have introduced several waste streams — for returned jeans from other brands and for returned MUD Jeans. Our own jeans are first sold as vintage, if they still look great. Worn-in jeans can be very fashionable, especially if you give them a redesign. That’s what we do — we redesign the jeans on demand.

http://www.mudjeans.eu

Les Sublimes: Pairing the 'Ethics' with Parisian Chic

Hanna-Amanda P. G. October 3, 2016

Apparently, organic has been a thing in French women’s grocery lists for years, but what does it take to introduce the word ‘organic’ into their everyday fashion choices? Sometimes the answer lies in an accidental research trip to the Himalayas in Nepal, during which long-term friends Kachen Hong and Alexis Assoignon experienced their own Eureka! moment, leading them a step closer to revolutionising the world of wardrobe staples in France. Les Sublimes surely serves as a complement filling in the gaps in the quintessential, timeless 'Parisian chic' style directory…in a delicately sublime way.

What does Les Sublimes represent?

Co-founder Alexis Assoignon: Les Sublimes is France’s first sustainable luxury brand sold exclusively online. Les Sublimes is a brand that doesn’t make you compromise on your needs, while also making you look and feel good on the inside and out. That is what we define as being Sublimes: the combination of inner and outer beauty.

What are the ethical principles you have incorporated into your brand?

[When creating Les Sublimes] we were driven by a desire to improve environmental and social conditions around the world, as well as a desire to create sustainable wardrobe alternatives that we wanted and couldn’t find in the marketplace. In fact, no one in France is making the everyday clothing pieces — those items that make up 80% of our wardrobes — in a socially-fair and eco-friendly way. We were sick of having to choose between style, affordability, comfort, quality and ethics.

As a responsible company, we integrate ethics and transparency into every element of our business, from design and production, to corporate culture and customer service.

What’s the personal story that links together the creation of Les Sublimes?

My co-founder Kachen Hong and I have been good friends for over 10 years (we met while studying at Sciences Po Paris). In 2014 we both quit our jobs and met in Nepal for 2 weeks. We had both been thinking about starting something of our own in our respective fields (Kachen, a Consultant in sustainable consumption and Alexis, a fashion Account Executive), but we weren’t sure where to start.

Les Sublimes: Alexis Assoignon and Kachen Hong

In Nepal everything started falling into place. There were long, scenic treks with lots of time to talk and share ideas. We also went to visit a group of Tibetan refugees spinning yarn for weaving and a small group knitters making sweaters in a remote village. We saw the women working so hard, for so many hours, and earning so little. Less than a $1 per day! We could see firsthand the immense need for better quality jobs and living wages. Speaking with the women, they felt hopeless about their employment situation. We quickly discovered that by marrying our own skills in fashion and sustainability, we could create a solution for these women in underprivileged communities, and also solve a personal problem — the lack of desirable and ethical, yet affordable fashion in the marketplace. So, in the misty landscapes of the Himalayas, Les Sublimes, a lifestyle brand for worldly women with big hearts, was born.

I see every new startup as a collective effort, no single person can change the world alone. Bring an example of the power of teamwork.

I couldn’t agree more. Within the Les Sublimes team itself we choose to hire based on personality and purpose rather than a fancy resume or a corporate background. Because everyone on board is motivated by something bigger than themselves, the dynamics of the team are totally different. The work will always be rewarding because we share a common goal of making a difference. We also recognise that every person on the team has value.

“We quickly discovered that by marrying our own skills in fashion and sustainability, we could create a solution for these women in underprivileged communities…[…]. So, in the misty landscapes of the Himalayas, Les Sublimes, a lifestyle brand for worldly women with big hearts, was born.”

We also believe that there is enough room on this planet for all of our [like-minded] businesses to thrive. So if we can work with our fellow entrepreneurs to reach our collective goals, then we are all better off. That’s one of the reasons why we choose to be fully transparent as a brand.

Describe your personal style. How is sustainability represented in your personal wardrobe choices?

My style is a mix of modern West Coast staples and effortless Parisian classics. I love to dress in something easy and comfortable, but still look chic and presentable in the city. Influenced by French dressing, I’ve always taken a position of quality over quantity, investing in well-made classics and essentials that I can easily mix and match with other items in my wardrobe. My mom always took me along to second-hand stores growing up, showing me how to find hidden gems at bargain prices. Nowadays I have taken my values a step further by actively seeking out products and brands that are environmentally fair. But the options are still limited, which is one of the motivating factors behind creating Les Sublimes.

“For me personally, living sustainably is about taking baby steps and slowly shifting to a more conscious lifestyle. I don’t try to be militant about it, because it can be overwhelming.”

What would you say about a typical French woman’s style in that respect — are they into sustainable choices, or it's only now that this mindset is starting to ingrain?

We were surprised to discover that France is definitely behind other markets, such as Canada, the U.S., Germany and Scandinavia, when it comes to shopping consciously. The French care a lot about the quality of their foods, and eating organic has quickly become a trend here. But as far as that expands into fashion, they are still learning. On the flip side, however, French women naturally shop with a philosophy of quality over quantity. So in terms of consuming less, they trump North Americans any day. They prefer to invest in high quality pieces from brands they trust, and take care of those items, so that they will last for years to come. The bulk of her wardrobe is very thoughtfully curated.

How does Paris as a city inspire your work?

Paris is an inspiring city - there are so many incredible museums, exhibits, shops, restaurants and monuments; it’s almost hard to stay focused on any single aesthetic! One trip to the Louvre and you want to introduce Roman inspirited jewellery, the next day you’re dreaming about empire waist dresses.

What are the 100% natural gems on your beauty counter? Reveal us a secret conscious brand we all should know about.

I learned a lot about natural beauty products when I spent 2 months travelling through India a few years ago. I discovered great oils that can be used on the hair, skin, face, eyelashes — and they work better than any fancy cream. My favourite is almond oil. It’s the same stuff you cook with. You can buy a large bottle for a few dollars in any Indian supermarket, or for a bit more at your local grocery store. Nothing keeps my legs moisturised during those dry winter months like almond oil, and it even keeps me warmer, preventing a chill.

What's your attitude towards negative connotations linked to ethical fashion? Do you feel that ethical fashion still sustains the absence of glamour?

I do think that ethical fashion is still perceived by many people as being unglamorous – I call it folk festival chic. The public perception is that ethical fashion is unattractive, avant-garde, hippie-esque, or super ethnic. Products are rough, poorly packaged and overpriced because they are labeled ‘organic’. But this is definitely shifting. There are so many incredible brands emerging that are disrupting this old attitude towards sustainable products. And we are here to help the movement along.

“One trip to the Louvre and you want to introduce Roman inspirited jewellery, the next day you’re dreaming about empire waist dresses.”

What are the widely circulating attitudes about ethical fashion in France now?

Honestly, there isn’t much of a discussion at all yet. It’s still fairly new in France. The food industry has become a hot topic these past few years. Recently supermarkets have banned plastic bags, and the government has just put a stop to disposable cups and plates. There are so many organic grocery stores popping up everywhere and the supermarkets now offer a great assortment of organic foods. The bus system in Paris is going completely electric as well. So I think ethical fashion will be the next big thing.

What's the hardest part in this process of promoting sustainable fashion?

One of our biggest challenges is educating the consumer that doesn’t already actively pursue a sustainable lifestyle. She may not have ever thought about shopping differently or doesn’t realise the impact of her conventional purchases. But once she understands, there is a permanent, albeit slow, shift in her buying habits.

We realised early on that most shoppers see ethics as a bonus, not as a driving force behind their purchasing decisions. That’s why we are focused on developing this concept of no compromise consumption — so that she doesn’t have to choose between integrity and everything else.

How are sustainability principles incorporated into your own everyday?

For me personally, living sustainably is about taking baby steps and slowly shifting to a more conscious lifestyle. I don’t try to be militant about it, because it can be overwhelming. I choose to live simply, in a small apartment, with less — which incidentally also means I save money and have less stuff to clean, manage and store. I recycle, reduce my energy consumption, walk or bike when I go out, buy organic at the supermarket, eat less meat and dairy, and invest in quality, durable products. In the end, leading a sustainable lifestyle generally leads to less stress, better health, more time and saving money. It just takes a little time to get there.

If you could introduce only one major change into the fashion industry today, what would it be?

Tough question! If I had to choose, I think we must put a stop to the pollution caused by factories that is destroying the environment. The devastation that results from processing and dying our garments is beyond control. As passionate as I am about supporting workers’ rights, I can’t ignore the urgent need to slow down climate change. Nature has no voice and we are running out of time!

https://www.les-sublimes.com

Slow.ee — Pioneering Estonian Eco Fashion Revolution

Hanna-Amanda P. G. September 28, 2016

Helen Puistaja — founder of the first online slow fashion boutique Slow.ee — is on an altruistic mission of bringing eco fashion closer to the Estonian public, and make it more accessible in our half-Scandi land. She assures that the eco revolution hasn’t happened rapidly, but Estonians are more conscious about their consumption habits than ever before. I met Helen at a quaint cafe in my hometown, Tartu, to talk the present and future of eco fashion in Estonia. What an honour to exchange ideas with a brave woman pioneer dedicated to changing things one generation at a time…

Personally, I find your idea of a slow fashion concept store relatively unique in the Estonian market. What were the main concerns in this infinite fight between the fashion industry and the environment (large-scale and the ones you considered on a personal level) that informed the creation of Slow.ee?

The idea preceded already about 5 years, but I somewhat sensed that back then people were not ready for my vision as such. Originally, it started when me and my sister were facing an infinite dilemma of where to get the most basic clothes in Estonia — the most simple, ‘everyday uniform’ type clothes, such as black and white T-shirt, tight black jeans, the most basic sneakers, that would also be of good quality, and we felt like these items were impossible to find in Estonia at the time. So for a while we were playing around with the idea of a store specialising in wardrobe basic items, but then I went to Germany for a year and we somehow dropped it. After a year, though, my thinking had changed and I had also turned into a vegan, which had invoked another level of thinking — I was more concerned about the environmental impact of fashion-making than ever before, so I knew there needs to be an ethical twist to it. I wasn’t really contemplating the concept and its necessity, because I generally have this attitude in life that if an idea pops into my mind I immediately execute it, trusting my gut instinct. I don’t even bother to go into too much detail, but just consider the fact that ‘oh, there’s a gap in the market’, nothing similar exists in Tartu yet. So, Slow.ee was born.

“I generally have this attitude in life that if an idea pops into my mind I immediately execute it, trusting my gut instinct.”

Nothing similar existed in Tartu, but elsewhere in Estonia? How does your approach stand out?

There are actually three similar boutiques in Estonia, but they’re all located in Tallinn [our capital]. It seems to me that they are focusing on eco fashion and strictly certified items, but what was particularly missing from their approach was focusing on educating the consumer about the environment and the impact of fast fashion. They’re style direction — what I perceive as romantic and hippie — is also a polar opposite to mine. I didn’t notice too many classic, everyday basics within their selection.

What's your initial reaction to the cliche that perceives eco fashion as something not as glamorous, e.g. namby-pamby linen cloth products that look a bit outdated. On the other hand, we see fast fashion as something desirable — piling those fashion items high into our shopping basket offers us fulfilment, we are gaining immediate gratitude from simply buying those items. However, do you feel that people’s attitudes are starting to change?

Considering [the realm of] Estonian market, I truly understand where this perspective comes from — there are not many sustainable fashion alternatives on offer to balance it out. We still only have a choice of hippie dresses and those flowers and fairies, but a lot of excellent brands are out there and slowly cropping up here as well to offer balance to the market. I also hope to bring them closer to the Estonian public. You brought out the fast fashion issue and the satisfaction we gain from buying [new things], which could be related to psychology. By no means I am an expert, but I had a thought that, from an early age, we are being sold that idea of ‘shopping makes you happy’. So often we are just buying new things and new things, without focusing on our main problem, and [find it easier to] kill it with the good emotions we gain from the act of consumption. It is easier to show the audience that the other side of fashion has a lot of variety to offer than root out the necessity to constantly consume and crave and seize for new things. It is a deeply-rooted concern; addiction which takes years to reverse.

Where does this phenomenon come from that we see shopping as a reward — we subconsciously hide our true concerns behind conspicuous consumption and mindless buying craze, and also tell our children that ‘If you behave well, I will treat you to some goodies, I will reward you with a treat or two.’

It is the easiest way [to deal with it]! It is an easy way out, especially when it comes to kids, who see things and want chocolate and candy in the shop. If the kid wants something and is shouting in the store, then you cannot put up with [the unpleasant scene] in front of everyone. And when they get the treat, then they become completely silent immediately.

Perhaps it is to do with us spending too much time in those artificial environments these days — all our entertainment revolves around huge shopping centres, whereas it is inseparable that when the children drag along and see fancy things, they immediately want them too. How do we get out of that vicious cycle of consuming things and perhaps realise that there are other ways of spending our leisure time?

I think these issues are all interrelated. It is not only about buying better quality clothes, which are better for the environment and therefore for our health, but it is also attached to the concept of personal development. After all, it is an individual matter to come to this realisation — you yourself need to force yourself out of that cycle of commercialism and reflect more on yourself to make rational decisions and understand that you don’t need that new item to be happy. Firstly, you should always ask yourself, perhaps there’s something else missing in your life, it might be that somewhere deep inside there’s another reason behind [craving for a thing].

So you believe that every person has an individual responsibility to open their eyes to the idea of environmental responsibility?

It can be approached on many different levels and through various layers of importance — starting from your own health to [what is to do with] the environment. The easiest way to convince parents to act greener is the fact that they always want the best for their children and they don’t want to wrap their child into those clothes full of chemicals. Last week I held a presentation at a kindergarten, and I find it a very clever approach to speak to people to whom the future we build for ourselves and our children is more tangible. I want to do things better for the world simply to be a better place, but I don’t have this particular person in mind whom I am doing it for, but parents have that special person because of whom they should do things in a more considerate way. Nothing will change overnight, but let’s take it generation by generation then.

“[…] From an early age, we are being sold that idea of ‘shopping makes you happy’. Often we are just buying new things and new things, without focusing on our main problem, and kill it with the good emotions we gain from the act of consumption.”

How did parents react to your presentation?

I only had limited time to speak, so I used the shock therapy method. I showed them images like, here’s a child sitting on top of a dumping ground, that is the reality. A young, exploited child sewing somewhere in a dirty factory, that is the reality. To see the images of the huge amount of sewage water that drains into the natural waters from plantations and factories, is only one side of the coin, but I think this is what people have the strongest reaction to. There they sat and stared with petrified faces…

Don’t you often get the impression that these problems and concerns seem somewhat distant, so out of reach from us? For example, we often hear the news that somewhere in Bangladesh a factory collapsed, and immediately think, who cares? What we actually don’t realise is that we are contributing to these incidents on a daily basis by buying those fashion items, toys and homeware, which are crafted by children of the Developing World.

During the presentation I gave at the kindergarten the headmaster pointed out savvily that, “we feel like they are extremely unhygienic and unkempt there, but it is our rubbish they are sitting in.” She was confronted with the epiphany that this little human is sitting on top of our rubbish, not on someone else’s rubbish. Of course, there will always be people who couldn’t care less about preserving our environment, and there’s nothing much to do about it. But if you take that garment full of chemicals and wash it in the washing machine here, then the infused chemicals reach us one way or another. Then comes the time we have to learn to take responsibility for it.

Of course, we are often presented with the beautiful lie that they are actually happy to have that job in a factory mass producing clothes…

They are! Because they don’t know a better way. Perhaps it is the best choice for them out of all choices, but it doesn’t justify the sad reality — exploitation of these young people.

I’ve also noticed that slow fashion still stands on the pricier side of the market compared to its Fast Fashion sister. To me it seems like stating the obvious, considering the high production costs and ethical approach, but how has the audience’s reaction been so far — do they perceive eco fashion as something lavishly expensive or affordable?

I have also tried to take in orders for goods that are more affordable. However, I’ve been keeping in mind that the things I offer cannot be too cheap. In order to cherish the item more, you need to think the purchase through and ask yourself a few questions — how to combine it with the already existing pieces in your wardrobe; how does it go together with your personality. I want the customer to see it as an investment — she is willing to spend a larger amount, because that way it also lasts for longer. My target audience — of course, all people could act more considerate and consume better — are people who have already found their own style and know that the lifespan of the purchased item will be infinite. I am that person myself… I know nothing about fashion! On the other hand, I have developed my own unique style over the years, which is not very significant, but I feel good in my own skin wearing my signature clothes, and when I do buy something, I wear it at least for a year…two… three… four, maybe even longer.

And when you divide the cost of the product with the number of years worn…

It is overall much cheaper indeed.

As a true fashionista, I am also struggling with the results of excessive fashion consumption habits in the past — I’ve got heaps and heaps of old garments, which I’ve disregarded for long and, as a result, I cannot find a way to get rid of them anymore. It just seems to me as a mindless waste, both financially and environmentally.

I would also like to highlight that I don’t support mindless wasting. That comes without saying that when people all of a sudden realise they should consume less and invest in better quality, durable clothes, then it necessarily doesn’t mean they have to swap their wardrobe against a new one. The items that already exist should be used until they last, without the attitude that “I am now environmentally conscious and I only need to consume organic clothes.” I am also struggling with finding the best option to send off the old items to recycling.

Tell me more about the brands you’ve chosen to introduce to the Estonian market. According to which criteria did you select them? Do you keep your own personal taste in mind, or think that, ‘I don’t actually like it, but my customers certainly do’?

I aim to keep a characteristic line in the selection of products, not to diffuse things unreasonably, because my aim is that the regular customer, who comes every once in a while, knows that they will certainly find items of a specific style from my store. If I would only consider my own personal taste, my store wouldn’t be customer-friendly at all! (laughs). It would be only for a strictly limited audience then. When I fill in the orders, I usually have specific prototypes in mind — people whose opinion matters and to whom I turn to when I need advice about product selection.

When I was studying in London and my course was completing our final major project, our tutors would often ask in awe, “Who do you keep in mind, when designing these products?”. There were artworks that were designed in a very incompetent way and we would often answer, “Don’t worry, I personally also don’t like it, but the one who purchases it, will adore it, hands down”. I think it also cannot be that controversial…

Agree! Well, of course I am considering what the consumer thinks, but I also have to remain true to my own vision — if I am doing it alone now, then it is my brand, my soul that has been poured out to take a form of a store, and I cannot do it inadvertently at this stage. I am always trying to look for the middle ground bringing together my own personal taste and an understanding of what the customer wants and needs.

Do you believe that slow fashion is still targeted at the niche market? Who is your actual target audience? You already mentioned earlier that someone who has already found their own personal style. Do you have anything else to add to this equation?

I wouldn’t say that slow is the right word to use here, but consuming consciously is certainly becoming more trendy and common here, more than it was a few years back.

Well, the brands you represent, use specific principles to be more environmentally considerate…

After all, the reality of things is, for making ends meet, you need to sell your products. This is the…

Together: Point of conflict!

Did I understand correctly — you can produce something ethical, but when you sell it in large quantities, then the end result comes across as completely unethical?

When you look at the entire process as a whole, it is absolutely acceptable that people need clothes and they want clothes, nothing wrong with that, but then we should start from the fact that the items we wear have been crafted keeping the nature and people in mind, and when the garment reaches the end of its lifespan, then it is crucial it won’t be thrown out to the dumping ground immediately, but the whole recycling process has to complete the full circle. Then the act of consumption becomes more reasoned and thought-through, too.

How would you evaluate the slow movement in Estonia compared to Scandinavia and the rest of Europe? Assuming that they already stand a step ahead of us, how could we progress to their level? How could we fill in that education gap when the subject of living greener is concerned?

To be honest, I preserve it more as a natural process, but as much as I’ve kept track [of the progress], it can be said Estonia is still a step behind. Although I think that the progress gap is not immeasurable anymore — people are more aware of the harmful effects of overconsumption and thinking green has become valuable. Of course I can perceive the rapid change in the mindset and general attitudes more sharply due to the fact that I am also an active member of the vegan community here.

Oh, veganism has become an entire movement on its own in Estonia.

Yes, all of a sudden there are vegan cafes popping up everywhere and we also boast a wide variety of organic food stores. Judging by that, I think we shouldn’t define the gap in being slow in progress — we only need more activists, who create these stores and make whole foods and the organic produce more accessible [for the everyday consumer].

One thing I have noticed, though, is that everywhere in Europe, the excessive use of plastic bags is strictly prohibited, but Estonians haven’t adopted that policy yet…

Not to mention that a few days back I just got angry with Selver [my local food store], where there was a striker on the food scale saying: “Please place all the products with different prices in a separate plastic bag.” AAAAGGHHH! Pure nonsense!

I also believe that they should at least encourage using paper bags, or…

Why do I need to place a single item in a plastic bag? I can weigh a single tomato without it.

That is indeed ridiculous.

I do understand there will always be people who would place even their single carrot in a plastic bag, but the store has a responsibility not to encourage it. I cannot buy any food products that are wrapped in heavy plastic packaging… in Estonia, they sell leek wrapped in plastic. If I see something like that, I just refuse to buy it.

“My target audience — of course, all people could act more considerate and consume better — are people who have already found their own style and know that the lifespan of the purchased item will be infinite. I am that person myself… I know nothing about fashion!”

What other environmentally responsible principles do you follow in your everyday life? Apart from being a vegan…

I hate wasting water. Although our bad habit of letting the tap run freely while we are brushing our teeth is not even comparable to the amount of water wasted on growing cotton in India, but I try to avoid wasting water as much as possible. Also, as mentioned, I am not fond of using heavy packaging. The loveliest surprise awaiting me when I moved to my new flat was that next to our building are 4 separate recycling bins — one for general waste, one for plastic and packaging, one for cardboard and one for organic waste. Now I recycle everything separately. No one is an über-human, but at least as much as I humanly can.

Have you also reduced consuming fast fashion?

To be fair, I have never been particularly fond of shopping — when I was brought up I was always encouraged to think my purchases through. I still belong to the generation who remembers the time when everything wasn’t so easily accessible and available in our market, so it is fairly a modern-day concern, when you have limitless opportunity to consume and consume.

Maybe partially this could be the reason why Estonians are reluctant to accepting eco fashion and consuming less, because we are so used to not having anything available…

And now we have more than enough, so we have to take advantage of it! Maybe that’s the reason why it takes longer for us to understand that we are better off with consuming less.

In a nutshell, could you bring out a specific aspect that concerns you the most related to your start-up?

To be fair, in Estonia there are thousands of people who are dedicated and ambitious; who are willing to invest all their free time to help and work 12 hours in a row, but in the end it all comes down to the finances and readiness to act. But it is not a hindrance at the moment. We can do it!

I would again like to point out that we are inserted into this materialistic and superficial cultural environment that encourages consumption and therefore we also encourage our children to look for the missing happiness in rewards we can buy only with money. How to change that mindset and replace it with thinking greener? Pitch me an effective action plan.

I think everyone needs to come to that conclusion themselves that this cannot go on any longer. What we can do is to educate people as much as in our will and be a positive example. Sadly, the way it works with certain things in life is that when you force them upon people, then they refuse to conform, and as a result, act in a reverse way. We certainly don’t want that. I personally try to offer a variety of possibilities — to filter the products according to my own vision and ideals, to educate people on the negative effects of consumption and be an exemplary figure in thinking green. And then everyone individually slowly gets there in their own pace, if they do…

How is your experiment called pineapple leather versus Estonian weather progressing? (hinting at the shoes made of Pinatex leather [pineapple leaves fibres] Helen is wearing)

They haven’t seen any rain yet! I also haven’t deliberately jumped into shower with them to test the water resistance, but they are extremely comfy and allow the feet to breathe.

So you recommend them? Will they be available for us to buy?

I have introduced only a couple of pairs at the moment. My final e-store launches in October and then feel free to order and test out yourself!

Where do you keep your inventory and send the products out?

Under the kitchen cupboard. I have a teeny-tiny apartment and you wouldn’t even notice that there’s a whole store full of goodies hidden somewhere… everything is perfectly fitted in.

Thinking economically! Both laugh out loud.

Lately, Slow.ee PopUp store could be spotted at Tartu Kaubamaja, (expectedly) from December onwards, Slow boutique will be open to customers in the newly-refurbished Aparaaditehas…

www.slow.ee

Noctu: Seasonless Organic Cotton Nightwear

Sophie Breitsameter September 21, 2016

Noctu is a family business founded by sisters Zoë and Milly, who are based between Bath, UK, and Oslo, Norway. Having witnessed firsthand the shocking impact conventional cotton manufacturing has on people and our planet, they were compelled to create ethically made, beautiful, minimal night and loungewear.

“Take my hand and I will lead the way.

Through the fjords where the night is day.

A special place where the sun does not set.

A land where mountains silhouette.

A place for those who dare to dream.

The land of the midnight sun.”

Noctu dedicated years to finding the right manufacturers, determined to find organic production and fair trade conditions. Throughout their business, Noctu ensure equality, women empowerment and ongoing training programmes. The collection is a wonderful example of how small companies are helping shift the norm with beautiful, high quality products, sourced and made ethically and sustainably that don’t compromise on design, or start at an inaccessible price point.

Noctu’s first seasonless night and loungewear collection is beautiful and simple, inspired by the Scandinavian midnight sun, where days neither begin nor end.

All of Noctu’s cotton products are certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard Fairtrade.

We love their nighties and the gorgeous pure white bed linen, just what we need as the nights start to draw in.

http://www.noctu.co.uk

The White Label Project: Connecting Sustainable Scandi Luxury With Honest Prices

Hanna-Amanda P. G. August 19, 2016

The White Label Project is a Norwegian online concept store connecting clean-cut, sustainable luxury staples with affordable, honest prices. Savant spoke to Nicola, founder of The WLP, who calls people to be just a degree more mindful when it comes to their fashion purchases, without stripping away the glamorous side of shopping. Not all the luxury in the world has to come with an insurmountable price tag…

What are the key influences that formed The White Label Project?

The White Label started out as a project based on the concept of unbranded goods. We wanted to focus on classic staples that are of luxury quality, but which are not priced according to their brand positioning. [The aim is to offer] classic, clean-cut staples at honest prices. After moving from Shanghai to Norway, I realised that there were many women like me, who wanted key investment pieces, but cared more about the actual quality of the products than brand names. I knew a lot of people in manufacturing and step-by-step started calculating how to make luxury more affordable for everyone. Scandinavian simplicity will also always be a key influence crossed with feminine touches from my days in ballet.

Why is sustainability in fashion important now?

It is becoming harder to ignore the facts about the change in our climate and environment. We need to be considerate and conscious when it comes to our fashion purchases, instead of being mindless and materialistic. We must realise that the way we live our lives now affects the world and the future of our children.

“We continue to sweep under the rug the traumatic incidents and truths about manufacturing in Third World countries, and hide it behind all those big campaigns and glamour.”

From the viewpoint of you as an insider, who is the key audience for sustainable fashion?

I honestly would have to say young women. I think we now want the future generations to say, 'My mother taught me this..' or 'My mother did this…'. When women hold the majority in purchasing garments in the retail sector and for households, I think that is where we can pinpoint the right audience to educate. It has become quite clear that it will be these women and their choices in consumption that will be passed on to the next generation.

There are many projects connecting sustainability and something novel in fashion in the Scandinavian region. One could say it has become a wave on its own. What could be the reason behind that?

Scandinavia has always been ahead of the market when it comes to design and innovation. Personally, I feel that here in Norway people have a deep connection with nature. You don't see forests being destroyed or pollution taking over drastically. It seems like the natural and the artificial world co-exist in a balanced, peaceful way. So it only seems like a natural progression that Scandinavian designers and organisations would venture into sustainable fashion.

“I try to focus on [calling people to be] more minimal and mindful when purchasing clothes, instead of stripping away the glamorous side of fashion.”

What's the hardest part when it comes to promoting sustainable fashion? What could be done to make it more visible to the everyday consumer?

I think people have stereotyped sustainable fashion and therefore it is very difficult to change [the idea of it]. I find a lot of brands really marketing it the wrong way. I personally try to approach it in a very gentle and subtle way — I try to focus on [calling people to be] more minimal and mindful when purchasing clothes, instead of stripping away the glamorous side of fashion.

Do you agree that honest and ethically made fashion is still on the pricier side compared to its Fast Fashion sister. Why is that? Do you think this could change in the future?

Sustainable fashion will always be more expensive than fast fashion due to using high quality materials and fairly paid workers. Fast fashion companies in general are continually searching for new factories in the developing countries that can provide the low cost of labour. For example, China used to be considered cheap, but now it is well known for providing high-quality garments, too. I do often wonder, what will happen when all these developing countries become regulated. How will fast fashion brands maintain their prices? Bottom line, it won't be sustainable.

How would you evaluate your competitors in the realm of Scandinavian market?

I don't really have time to think about competition at this point. Instead, I like to focus on the direction that we are heading to. I think you can easily get too caught up with what is happening around you and let it influence you in a negative way, which in reality isn't productive.

“I think we now want the future generations to say, 'My mother taught me this..' or 'My mother did this…’."

Talking about reshaping the fashion industry today, how can we make something that affects us all on a larger scale perhaps more personal?

From my perspective, what is still wrong with the fashion industry is that we continue to sweep under the rug the traumatic incidents and truths about manufacturing in Third World countries, and hide it behind all those big campaigns and glamour. There needs to be more honesty. As consumers, we really need to become more conscious of what we are buying into in the long run.

What would be your advice for startups who want to do something similar to your project, but haven't had the courage to do so yet?

Always be practical and realistic, but honest. The entry barriers into business these days are low-cost, so you have every opportunity to start.

http://www.thewhitelabelproject.com

AIAYU: 100% Social Mission Oriented Danish Label

Hanna-Amanda P. G. July 28, 2016

Incorporating a human story into fashion making is one of the core values for Aiayu. Working with authentic, raw materials found in Nepal, Bolivia and India, the foreign-sounding Danish label brings you immaculately crafted fashion basics by skilled local artisans. The transparency factor behind the certified Scandinavian label? In addition to educative story telling about the origins of materials, Aiayu religiously equates the aesthetics with a larger environmental benevolence. With the help of a skilled pair of hands or two, Aiayu proves that a 100% responsible social mission is the only way forward in today’s sustainable design industry.

What are Aiayu’s principles and philosophy?

In a world filled with meaningless products made via mass production, it’s becoming more and more important to choose products with a soul, from companies with a conscience. At Aiayu, our concept is all about natural, organic materials handmade by artisans using ancient techniques to create timeless designs born to be worn, lived with and loved. [We are interested in] involving working conditions that comply with international standards, as part of a certified sustainable production process designed to minimise any harm done to the planet, or the people who inhabit it.

What's the biggest accomplishment for Aiayu so far?

Some accomplishments have been [reached] internally, so to speak. Having the factory in Bolivia WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production) certified took many years and is a big step forward in a Third World country. Another accomplishment is to be seen in the company of Gwyneth Paltrow in her new cookbook. [For us it means a lot that] people take a liking in our brand, because it is beautiful and comparable to other brands that are not necessarily sustainable. [The fact that] our products are attractive enough in itself is a big accomplishment.

What Third World regions are you working with and how does it go together with your social mission?

Our social mission is to produce, where the material originally comes from and where they have the specific skills to work with it. We want to preserve the heritage of the people who we work with, and make them proud of something they take for granted. Today we work with Bolivia in knits, India for cotton and Nepal for cashmere and yak. The origin determines the quality. We are deeply rooted in our love for natural materials - these exquisite raw materials are the main source of inspiration when creating our product range, and they continue to inspire us to evolve our concept. Our idea is to simply refine what nature has already designed so beautifully.

“I hope we stand out in telling the story not only as a marketing tool, but giving people a feeling of being close to the process and the people behind it. […] It’s the human story we need to transcend to the end customers.”

By what it feels like, more and more Scandinavian brands are pushing forward ethical principles in their businesses. What’s unique about Aiayu’s approach?

I hope we stand out in telling the story not only as a marketing tool, but giving people a feeling of being close to the process and the people behind it. We get initials engraved inside the garments to trace the women, who knitted them. These are they stories people want to hear and relate to, much more than just a certification. It’s the human story we need to transcend to the end customers.

How can we make something that affects us all on global scale reach its meaning to the end consumer? Could it be a question of personalising, creating a story that delivers around it?

As mentioned above, I think it is very much about telling a personal story of the people behind [production]. Teaching people something. People want to learn and get skilled. Working in depth with our factories and materials, we have knowledge that we have to keep on reminding ourselves to share and not take for granted. Sharing our brand’s personal story means educating people in a good way…

In your opinion, what are the key concerns the fashion industry still faces? If you could make one change that has no reverse effect, what would it be?

The massive consumption and fast consumption of clothes. Overproduction and overload of needs, fast-moving trends. Purchasing long-lasting pieces makes you value your clothes even more. At Aiayu, the quality of the clothes also has the effect that people buy fewer pieces from us, but they come back. They naturally buy fewer pieces because the last for a long time, but the longevity and durability of the product makes people feel they get the value for money. Our customers understand the value of good quality.

“We are deeply rooted in our love for natural materials - these exquisite raw materials are the main source of inspiration when creating our product range, and they continue to inspire us to evolve our concept.”

In addition to selling fashion products, how important is it to educate people on how to take care of their fashion purchases?

It is super important! [This is] to make them appreciate their products, old and new. Our marketing approach also incorporates a mission to make people proud of what they have already purchased, not only to think about what they are going to purchase next. It is conflicting with our short-term business goals, but we believe that it is a long-term achievement that will come back to us well.

“Our marketing approach also incorporates a mission to make people proud of what they have already purchased, not only to think about what they are going to purchase next.”

In your opinion, has the digitalisation of our culture made it harder or simpler to spread your message? Is there anything you would change about this surrounding 'fast and more' culture?

If the media is used right, I think it gives us a unique opportunity to connect directly to the consumer, and to break it up into fewer pieces, so that people can consume [the information]. Instagram and Facebook feeds deliver information in smaller bits to make people read more without losing interest, whereas a website often makes them just to look at the pictures. About the social media influence as a whole, I think you can use it to your advantage – even though these fragments are fast-moving. But before starting, make sure you have your vision and goals clear far afield.

https://www.aiayu.com

To Freeze The Time Through Tapestry — Retrieving Memories Through Carpet Landscapes: Alex Keha

Hanna-Amanda P. G. May 30, 2016

How to connect the dots between nature, sustainability and carpet making? By reinventing cherished childhood territories from leftover textiles of her family-owned factory, Argentinian rug artist Alexandra Kehayoglou gives an answer to this seemingly impossible equation. It’s in the Studio Kehayoglou, where the hands work hard and artisanal immaculacy bravely takes shape, stopping the passing of time in ethereal still-life carpet artwork.

Your carpets are pure magic. How does the process of creating one begin?

Every piece has a story behind it and the whole process that leads to the final result is rather long and complex. [In my approach], the original techniques of tufting are combined with modern technology. I try to link both platforms — the industrial and the manual — to create more experimental artworks. My greenlands, paddocks, shelters and tapestries are made up from retrieved material of the factory owned by my own family. In a way, they contain my own life experience.

I usually have a previous idea of what I want to achieve [as a final result], but this always changes through the process. I first sketch on the canvas, then apply the tones and create textures inspired by landscapes I’ve seen. The textile is weaved with handtuft system — with a pistol that I manipulate on vertical racks to create the weft that will give shape to the final piece. Each of them is unique, with a certain texture, pattern, volume and unrepeatable palette.

When did you start connecting and exploring the symbiosis between landscapes and rug making?

I grew up among rugs. Seventy years ago, my Greek family brought the tradition of designing and producing the carpets to Argentina. After many years of research, I decided to transform my family history into an artistic expression.

Everything started with my diorama boxes in which I tried to freeze a scene. An artificial miniature beach landscape in which the spectator could submerge, but these were at first [merely a] model — they were small and packed in a box. When that tapestry unfolded on the floor, I realised I could create those landscapes, following the same idea of time being frozen, but this time in a human scale. Therefore I decided to keep my cherished territories from childhood safe from the passing of time by recreating my landscapes.

How is the sustainability element represented in your artwork? What other principles do you consider to be the cornerstone of your art?

Sustainability is present in each piece of work. I am deeply conscious about nature and that is why I hand-tuft my pieces with 100% natural sheep wool and all the materials are surplus from my family’s factory. The materials are selected carefully and then dyed to achieve the desired colours.

How long does it take to create one masterpiece rug? What's the most complex project you have undertaken and completed?

Depending on the complexity of the piece, the production time can take from one to several months. I pay a lot of attention to details and I am extremely tedious with each and every stitch. The most complex project I worked on was a custom-made carpet designed by Olafur Eliasson and crafted by Alexandra Kehayoglou’s Studio. It consisted of a 3D carpet, which we had to adapt to a wooden topography to create a reading space in the Art Kunz Library of Berlin. This was truly challenging, because we had to develop a new method for the carpet installation. All in all, it was a great experience; we spent almost three weeks at the Studio. We worked a lot!

“Each of them is unique, with a certain texture, pattern, volume and unrepeatable palette.”

What makes a particular landscape inspiring enough for one of your rugs? What else inspires you throughout the process?

I guess the contemplation of the landscapes I love is the first step for the development of my work. Also, Argentinian geography has been very inspiring for me because, in a way, my personal history is tightly related to the history of that land. Walks through my parents garden with my son, road trips, sunsets, aerial views, the sea, the beach, my family, my grandmother, are part of this dialogue between nature, tradition and art.

You also have an inspiring Instagram account. In your view as an artist, is it important to promote yourself more as a 'brand' nowadays? Don't you feel that it has made your work more commercial?

I believe all art is very much about freedom. In a way, Instagram is a great tool for any visual artist, because it allows us to choose what we want to share about our daily work at the studio — it’s sort of a visual diary. During the last few years, artists have found new ways of creating the ‘buzz’ and circulation, it’s not merely about being a part of a gallery anymore. Even though my work is sometimes related to important brands, I really don’t find my work commercial at all. In fact, it is well known that there are new models of art business arising and concurrently with them, new ways of being an artist.

“Walks through my parents garden with my son, road trips, sunsets, aerial views, the sea, the beach, my family, my grandmother - all are part of this dialogue between nature, tradition and art.”

Describe the relationship between fashion and your rugs. There was a runway setup project you've done for one of the major fashion brands. Are there any other fashion collaborations you’ve executed?

In 2014, Dries Van Noten contacted my studio through a fashion producer called Villa Eugénie, who had seen my work online. They asked for a rug of 50 meters based on the same nature concepts that I work on. The design of the carpet was a pastizal (grassland/pasture). We travelled to Paris for the installation of the piece. It was a great experience because, even though the process was very intense and it had to be developed in a very limited timeframe, a new way of thinking my work appeared [as a result].

How can we be more environmentally aware and shape people's mindsets through what we put out in the world?

I think we should start with small actions. Every day is a chance of making things better. If we finally understand that we are not the centre of the Earth, but just a tiny part of it, as well as the trees, the animals, the rivers and seas and the mountains, our decision-making and behaviour will lead us to living a more environmentally-conscious life.

“I decided to keep my cherished territories from childhood safe from the passing of time by recreating my landscapes.”

What's your relationship with nature?

I was raised in a house with a big garden, so my approach to nature is quite sincere and spontaneous. As a child I used to explore the different colours, shadows, smell of the grass, the flowers and plants. Everything was special and new, my point of view was not contaminated by life experience. I remember making up stories for hours, nursing the birds, playing with mud. The feeling that time was frozen in a special moment is something I’ve been trying to transmit with my work as part of that first intuition.

The process of creating a masterpiece: Artist Alexandra Kehayoglou

In what ways has Argentina played a role in shaping you as an artist?

Argentina offers many kinds of climates, landscapes and cultures. I decided to embrace this diversity because it’s also a part of my own identity. The scenes I create are part of native territories that carry ancestral information and I think that my job as an artist is to transmit their message through the best language I know, art.

http://www.alexkeha.com